Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Aqua Dulce to Tehachapi

After hiking so many miles, living on the trail becomes second nature. The towns become harsher and more abrasives to the senses, and the speed of conventional travel, culture, and all around general activity seems to teem around you, pushing you back into the calm embrace of nature. In the dust and the rock of the desert, you move not as a human, but as a mammal. You eat for calories sake and you lumber from water source to water source. You become the purest form of human.

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This section of trail is nothing like that. In fact, if you can manage the miles, you could walk from house to house, or more accurately, party to party. I have spoken about Hiker Heaven and the Saufleys, a cool place to stay and get down, but still a place that asks for a modicum of decency and responsibility. 28 miles layer, sits Casa De Luna, or the Anderson’s. This hiker haven demands respect and deserves it by all means, but it is safe to say that Terri Anderson is into a little more, dirty fun. Hikers sit around on ratty couches the whole day. I did not move from my seat for 8th hours. All around, hikers laze about in one state of intoxication or another, wearing the trademark uniform of the Casa, an Hawaiian shirt. It is a rougher kind of place than Hiker Heaven, like a biker bar is rougher than just a regular pub. There is the hint of debauchery and danger in the air, held aloft by the rumors, both fantastical and realistic, spread between hikers about this place. And boy, does the Casa De Luna deliver. It is well worth the stop, and we’ll worth the zero you will most likely need the next day. I can best describe it as the Hotel California. You van check out, but you can never leave. Continue reading “Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Aqua Dulce to Tehachapi”

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Faces of the PCT

These hikers are some of the many we have met or seen along the trail. Some have been hiking with us for most of the trip and others have just been common faces.

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Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Wrightwood to Aqua Dulce

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Wrightwood to Aqua Dulce

After some big days and a foot scare, we ended up taking a pair of full zero days at Jeff’s house, a local trail angel with a twang in his voice and a Brett Favre motif; Levis and a steady, unwavering gaze. Jeff and his two kids, are some of the nicest people I have ever met. Without question, they took Finna and I into their home, along with a couple other hikers, and a few trail rats. One of the latter ended up ‘sleep walking’ and pissing on the floor. Though a herculean amount of alcohol and hash will afford you the same consequence as sleep walking. I’m just saying.

From a tangent in a conversation, I mentioned to some hikers that I never shot a gun. Jeff looked up calmly and asked if I would like to. At first , I assumed he was joking, but soon realized he was quite serious. The next thing I new I had a tiny .22 caliber handgun in my hand and I was taking aim.  When I say tiny, the thing looked like a toy, but be assured it was the most badass thing you would have ever seen- trust me. Continue reading “Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Wrightwood to Aqua Dulce”

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Hostel to Hostel Hiking

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Hostel to Hostel Hiking

Staying at Jeff’s hiker hostel was an inspiration. His family took us into their home and treated us with the upmost hospitality and generosity. We took several “zero” days here to rest up and get the hell out of the desert sun. This is the attic that became home for a few days.

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On the 3rd day of our stay, he took us out back to shoot a couple rounds off with his 22.

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Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: 370 Miles North – Trail Magic

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: 370 Miles North – Trail Magic

On day 17, it was decided that waking up at 4:30am and hitting the trail at 5:15 was the best option. The early breakfast was inspired by a 20 mile waterless stretch that lay ahead. Knocking out 10 miles before the heat of the day allowed me to carry only 2 liters during the waterless stretch.

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When it was all said and done, I arrived at the next water source at 2pm. I wasn’t dehydrated, I still had half a liter of water left. But, I was mentally and physically drained from the morning and afternoon hiking.
Of course, that’s when the trail provided something to uplift my spirits. A trail supporter must know of the difficult waterless stretch, so he/she setup a nice spot to relax and enjoy yourself.
Next to the water cache, this trail angel provided a couch and a garbage dumpster filled with some PCT Magic. Inside the dumpster was 8 different kinds of soda, various cookies, water, fruits, first aid supplies, and a trail log for thru hikers to sign. Continue reading “Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: 370 Miles North – Trail Magic”

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Idyllwild to Wrightwood

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Idyllwild to Wrightwood

Mile: 369.5

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The white bronco took another one of the hairpin turns at breakneck speed. The vehicle itself, which may have been held together by duct tape and paranoia, shrieked in protest as the driver gunned the engine and took another turn like he was in a car chase. Maybe he thought he was. No this isn’t OJ- this is D-Wayne. Not Dwayne. Not D. Wayne. D-Wayne.

“Is it Dwayne or Dee Wayne?”

“Yes.”

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D-Wayne was our driver, as he stopped at our extended thumbs and asked, “where yer heded?” We told him Big Bear, and we clambered into the front seat. Finna sat in the middle and could be seen trying to keep his body from flying side to side as D-Wayne floored the car around each corner.

” You know bout dem kim trails?”

As we are both hiking, and could barely understand the words coming out of this guys mouth, we assumed he was talking about some nature trail in the area, despite us telling him we were from across the country.

“No, whats that?”

“The damn white lines in the sky coming off dem planes! They got special aluminum in dem trails, so they can control the weather. Make it snow when it ain’t snow time, and make it hot when is ain’t supposed to be hot. Continue reading “Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Idyllwild to Wrightwood”

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: San Jacinto Wilderness

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: San Jacinto Wilderness

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Snow at 9,000 ft in SoCal

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Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Descent into Madness

Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Descent into Madness

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Darwin passes 200 miles!

Tantalus stands in a pool of clear, sweet, water, in the shade of a fragrant fruit tree. He is racked with an insatiable hunger and is dying of thirst.  But, every time he stretches his boney fingers towards the tree or his cracked lips to the water, it moves just out of reach. As I made my way down the 167th switchback of Fuller Ridge, and I wasn’t halfway down yet, I understood Tantalus’ predicament- temptation without satisfaction. Continue reading “Pacific Crest Trail Thru Hike: Descent into Madness”